Back in Paris!

So here we are back in Paris, loving it as much as ever. We arrived on Tuesday, and somehow it's already Friday--how did that happen?

We're getting spoiled with non-stop flights from Logan to CDG. It's great to get on the plane and get off again after only about 6 and a half hours. We weren't rested when we landed, and of course the plane was full, and the baby two rows in front of us cried for the entire flight, but at least when we landed we were in Paris. Have you ever had your luggage be the last thing to come off a 747? It can take a while. Nevertheless, we were soon on the RER and then the Métro, with our Navigo passes set for a week of transportation in Paris.

We had decided to get to know a new area of Paris this trip, and for reasons that I will spare you, we've ended up renting two apartments, five days each. Our first apartment is on Rue Fontaine, in the 9th arrondissement. When we got off the Métro the first thing we saw was the Moulin Rouge, the famous nightclub. It's about 3 blocks from our apartment, and Pigalle is also nearby. But the neighborhood in general is a typical Paris working class area, with the occasional sex shop thrown in. And lots of groceries, bakeries, and traiteurs--prepared food places. This morning I walked down to a bakery on rue de Douai, and discovered there are five model railroad shops in about a half a block area. Who knew?

The croissants were buttery, the baguette was aux pavots--poppy seeda--and delicious. That and a cup of café au lait and I was ready to go.

But I'm getting ahead of myself. Our first day here, Tuesday, we went down the street to a café for breakfast, then unpacked and had jet-lag naps. That afternoon we wandered around Montmartre, our neighbor just to the north. We fully appreciate the Funiculaire, which saves my knees the climb up to Sacré-Coeur. The day was hazy so views weren't great, but still fabulous to see. We wandered around until we found the famous Montmartre Vineyard, the only vineyard in Paris. The vendanges--grape harvest--were last week, earlier than normal (global warming?) so we didn't see any grapes. But we enjoyed seeing the "back side" of Montmartre.

That night we went to Le Gourmet, a restaurant recommended by the woman from whom we are renting the apartment. Just the kind of place we like--good food, friendly proprietor, good prices, and a nice walk. A nice start to our visit.

Wednesday dawned grey again, but no rain. We slept in, part from jet lag and part because we can't figure out who lives upstairs from us, but they appear not to sleep at night and either to hold bowling parties or move their wheeley bags around a lot in the middle of the night...The usual trip to the bakery for breakfast. Then my plan was to tour the Opéra Garnier, but found the main hall was closed so put that off. Instead I opted to do some research on shopping--Galléries Lafayette and Printemps, two huge Paris department stores that both have great restaurants and wonderful open terraces where you can get panoramic vistas--for free. I had lunch at the cafeteria at Galléries Lafayette and was introduced to a wonderful concept. A "boissons" (drinks) station in the middle of the cafeteria, where you could fill your glass from spigots offering soft drinks, beer, and about 4 kinds of wine! I then sat and enjoyed my salad and red wine at a table with a view of the Eiffel Tower. This is OK, I thought.

For dinner we walked a few hundred feet down the street and went to a Turkish restaurant, where Tom was delighted to speak Turkish (much easier than French, he says.) We had great dinners of kebabs, rice, salad, and delicious French fries, plus Turkish wine, for 23 euros.

Thursday another late morning, and then I headed off to the Jacquemart-André Museum, on Blvd Haussman, in the 8th arrondissement. It's housed in a beautiful hotel particulier and was the private collection of Eduard André and his wife Nelie Jacquemart. Lovely spot, normally very calme, but I happened to go just after a special exhibition of Bruegel, Memling, and Van Eyck had opened. So I spent 40 minutes in line but enjoyed it.

After that I walked down to the church of St. Augustin. I had been curious about this, because whenever you look at a panorama of Paris, from the Tour Eiffel or the Tour Montparnasse, or anyplace, you see this large church with a black dome. I never knew what it was or where it was, and now I do! Great to see it. Nice statue of Joan of Arc in front.

Last night we did something very unusual for us--had nightlife! We went up to Montmartre, had dinner at a very nice old fashioned restaurant with simple, good food at reasonable prices, served by an elderly gentleman who said, "Je vous en prie" a lot and did everything "comme il faut." We did not expect this on Montmartre and were pleasantly surprised. Afterwards we walked down to the Lapin Agile, a famous old cabaret where the likes of Picasso and Apollinaire (my favorite French poet) used to go, and had a wonderful evening of music. You go into a small, dimly lit room, with a piano player and some small tables. One table is inhabited by about seven musicians. Spectators sit around other tables, drinking the house special, a sort of cherry brandy with real cherries (with pits) in it. It starts as a sing along, but over the course of the evening each musician performs individually--singing, playing guitar or accordion, etc. They were all very talented and it was great fun. The music was a combination of French drinking songs, and "chansons de la rue," sort of old folk tunes. We wished we had known more of them so we could sing along more. For over a century the Lapin Agile has been a place for acoustic music, and some musicians have gotten their start there. It's a great tradition and we enjoyed it. We left about midnight, but the show went on until 2:00.

Today, Friday, rain was predicted, so I set out with my umbrella and sweater...and later wished I had left them at home and taken sunscreen! A beautiful day. I had planned to visit a couple markets, neither of which was open, so I spent my time exploring the Rue Mouffetard area, which is great. Rue Mouffetard is a wonderful market street, with fabulous cheeses, meats, fish, and produce. My big decision was where to have lunch, and I finally chose a restaurant (one of several) where I could get a 3-course lunch for 11 euros! And people think Paris is expensive! Of course it can be, but there are bargains if you look.

Afterwards I wanded through the Jardin des Plantes, and then went to Ile St. Louis and Ile de la Cité. It was amazing to me that I had been in Paris for 3 days and this was the first time I saw the Seine or what I consider the heart of Paris! There is so much to see and do here, and I feel incredibly lucky to be spending time here again.

Tonight was a quiet dinner at home, accompanied by a bottle of our favorite cheap sparkling wine, with the wonderful name of Café de Paris. Tomorrow more adventures!

Instead of writing this blog, I should be updating our website, www.paristravelplanner.com. I will, I promise!